Thai people are gracious, calm and reserved. I love the ubiquitous greeting, Sawasdee-(ka), often accompanied by hands clasped as if in prayer, and a gentle bow. This posture is called wai. But I also sense that Thais are just as private as they are polite. Closeness, and I imagine confidences, are only shared with family or best friends.
Family life is important.
The babies are all gorgeous and so are most of the young women, with their slim hands and graceful, small bodies.
There is a sizeable, and comfortable, subculture of gay men as well as courtesy among social classes. (Who says this is an “undeveloped country?”)
Thai women have a good thing going: they can order out and have cooked food delivered for ridiculously low prices, or their families can eat in the abundant restaurants ? many of which are open air ? that serve fabulous inexpensive food. Thais also seem to have a penchant for coffee ? there are lots of coffee shops and cafes around as well as fabulous bakeries!
Cars, gasoline, books and imported foods are the expensive commodities. Everything else is cheap by western standards.
Massage is big here. You can get a one hour foot and/or back massage in the shopping mall or the Night Market, often expertly delivered by gentle rural folks, for about US $1.50. A terrific haircut costs less than US $5.00 and a manicure/pedicure the same. What price luxury!
Life seems laid back and there is an aura of calm about the place. My neighbors, middle-class professionals, leave for work at 8:00 a.m. and return by 6:00 p.m. at the latest. Many people from Chiang Mai work hard in places like Bangkok, or further afield in other countries, but they call Chiang Mai home, retreating here on weekends and holidays because it is so mellow - and the good life is so inexpensive.
Traditional life is rapidly giving way to commercial modernity. Twelve years ago when I was last here, Chiang Mai was small, old-world charming and manageable. Now it hosts giant shopping malls, serious smog, five-star hotels, and ever-increasing urban sprawl. But the Night Market is bigger than ever and still wonderful!
Like elsewhere in Asia, women are expected to be patient, obedient, demure and hard-working. They are - often to their own detriment.
Thailand is decidedly hi-tech. Cell phones are ubiquitous and sophisticated, high-end computer retailers abound, and everyone is really savvy about this stuff.
Thais are potentially good entrepreneurs but they have a way to go when it comes to customer service. Neither Carrefour nor Tesco Lotus, for example, the two superstores frequented by many foreigners, have staff on duty who can understand enough English to guide farang (westerners) to a product. (On one of my first solo outings I asked for a hook and was guided to cookery.)
Thais drive like maniacs! The copious motorbikes are a particular threat. And no matter what happens in a fender-bender or worse, the farang is always to blame.
There are two temperatures in Thailand: Hot and I-can’t-take-it-anymore.
(End of Chapter 1.)
Elayne Clift
© Elayne Clift. All rights reserved by the author.
ISBN: 978-974-7051-827
----------------------------
If you enjoyed this first chapter of Elayne Clift's 'Achan: A Year of Teaching in Thailand' you can easily purchase the book online here at Bangkok Books.com: http://www.bangkokbooks.com/php/product/product.php?product_id=000059&sub_cate_name=&sub_cate_id=
Most books published by Bangkok Book House are available at Asia Books, Bookazine, B2S, Kinokuniya, Suriwong Chiang Mai, DK Chiang Mai, Pattaya, Lampang; all airports, many hotel outlets, supermarkets (Villa, Friendship Pattaya), The Books (Phuket, Krabi), Singapore including airport, Hong Kong airport and many smaller independent outlets throughout Thailand.
All rights for this book preview are reserved by the author. Reprint permission came from the publishing house Bangkok Book House (www.bangkokbooks.com).

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