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I'd observed a bounce in his step that wasn't there before. At the same time his face looked troubled as if he was carrying a heavy burden. I didn't know what to make of these conflicting characteristics yet didn't want to pry. My sister Irmi, his wife, appeared happy and relaxed, no indications of any marital problems.

Late that night Irmi indicated that she was turning in. Before I had time to agree it was time for all of us I caught the anxious look in Andreas' eyes. I remained seated and wished my sister good night. I looked across the river Mekong, lights of distant villas visible in the darkness. Laos, the country, lay across the river from us. I started to realize how far from home I was in this distant part of the world, here in Northern Thailand. Sobbing from Andreas brought me quickly back into the present. I looked over at him. This young, strong man, had tears swimming down his cheeks as he mouthed, "Pebo, I am so scared, I am afraid to go to sleep."

I looked across the table at him dumbfounded. I waited for him to explain. I lit a smoke for both of us and as I handed him one he held on to my hand. I looked at him and asked him quietly to tell me everything.

Andreas started speaking, telling me what I already knew: Ten years ago he had suffered an industrial accident, had injured his left heel. The injury healed over time but ever since he is suffering unexplainable excruciating lower back pain. Doctors have not found a cause, have turned him into a painkiller junkie. I wondered where this speech was leading to. His mouth started to quiver and a new flood of guppy sized tears swam ran his cheeks into his short beard.

"Pebo, I am too scared to go to bed. Last night in our room in Chiang Rai someone appeared in our room."

I looked at him as if he was crazy.

"True, someone shook me awake, deep into the night. A dark figure of a man, perfectly visible to me in the dark room, stood over me and looked down at me. Pebo, the dark man spoke to me. I am not sure if I heard the voice aloud in the room or only in my head but it spoke to me in my language. It told me to relax and listen. I lay there paralyzed with fear and just stared up at the man. The voice told me that I had been walking for years favoring my right foot; it suggested I start to walk normally on both feet. Then I must have fallen asleep again. This morning I woke up without any back pain. Consciously I changed my walking as suggested. I felt and feel no pain in my lower back. I have not taken any painkillers today. Pebo, I am afraid, what should I do, who came to visit me in our room?”

Andreas pleading touched me deeply. I looked at him in wonder, got up and around the table and hugged him.

"Andreas, you've been blessed. Don't question, rejoice, enjoy the painless freedom. Don't question the night time visitor, don't look for an explanation. Feel blessed. You know, you can reason that the visitor was not a real person. The ghost or spirit, whatever you may wish to call it, took a liking to you and showed you the way to a painless back. Give thanks, you have nothing to fear. Remember where you are. You are in a mysterious part of the world where ghosts and spirits are known to roam freely."

Still hugging him we looked down at the leisurely flow of the river Mekong. Yet I know its ferocious mighty strength and power during the rainy season.

Two weeks later Andreas, still with a painless lower back, took me aside at the Bangkok airport.

"Pebo, on your next temple visit speak to the monk and give thanks and say prayers for me."

"Andreas, I did that on the morning after you told me," I replied and hugged him farewell.

For many reasons Andreas will never forget his visit to mysterious Thailand. I am glad he came. Each time I visit a temple I thank the unknown spirit who came and healed Andreas, my brother-in-law.

Pebo