Tom Yum Gruh-doo [bone soup]

By : Santa
Views : 411

I have particular tastes in the food that I eat. One of the things that I like to see is the main ingredients treated fairly. By that, I mean that the meat – or whatever – should be cooked the way that suits it.

My parents used to serve brussels sprouts in a holy way [they had boiled the hell out of them] and those sprouts fell to one of the lowest positions on my “prepared to eat” list. By contrast, my wife cooks brussels sprouts by quartering them and stir-frying them with a modicum of oyster sauce, never over-cooking them. I like them that way, and will even buy them myself to get the wife to work her magic on them.

It might be worth mentioning that my wife is the number 1 chef at a Thai restaurant, and she really knows how to cook Thai food. Sadly, her knowledge of how to cook western food is somewhat thin on the ground, and that sometimes causes me some grief.

The restaurant where she works uses the best beef for all of its beef dishes, and as a result, she has come to the conclusion that all beef is equal. Topside beef is used for stir-fry beef. Topside beef is used for tom yum neua. Topside beef is all that there is.

I bring home some gravy beef so that I can make a stew, and she fries it. Then I get told that I should buy beef, not oxen or buffalo. Right! I bring home some round steak, and as likely as not, it will be made into some sort of soup.

I stumbled upon a chance to purchase some osso buco at half price about two months ago, so I grabbed 3 kilos which gave me 15 pieces. For anyone who doesn’t know, osso buco is a veal cut from the shank; it is cut across the bone, so you get a circle of bone and an outer circle of soup-meat. The cut is usually about 25mm [1"] thick.

I get this windfall treasure home and the wife takes half of it and fries it before I could tell her to leave it alone. I got bad comments and dirty looks for a few days after. I had bought tough meat, I was the bad boy. I explained to the wife that osso buco is meant to be cooked in a soup or stew.

Unfortunately, she took me at my word, and a day or so later, she took the remains of the osso buco and put it into a batch of tom yum – a sour and spicy Thai soup. I thought that I had lost the osso buco because my wife normally makes her tom yum with the authentic ingredients, making it too spicy for my taste. She left the soup pot to cool on the stove while she went to work, and I looked at it, wishing that she had not stolen my delicacy and made it inedible. I couldn’t resist a small try of the meat, so I grabbed a pair of tongs and dipped into the pot of liquid mystery.

The surprise that I got was pleasant. My wife had been in a hurry to make this tom yum, and had used a can of commercial soup as the base for the pot’s contents. It wasn’t as spicy as I had expected it to be!

My face gained a smile. And the tongs dipped into the pot again. And again, many times over.

While I can’t be certain, I think that I got all of the meat, leaving nothing but the bones. And I ate all that I got from that pot.

The wife returned home that night, dropped a handful of chopped chillies into the soup pot, boiled it again for another half-hour, then ladled it out into containers to put in the freezer.

Today, my stepdaughter and her cousin took a day-trip to Sydney to see the sights, my wife went to use her culinary skills at the restaurant, and I was left at home to take care of my two sons. I decided to feed them with a savoury stew that I would make from about 700 grams of gravy beef, potatoes and vegetables. They both enjoyed it.

Tonight, the stepdaughter and her cousin returned, hungry. I offered the young lad a serve of my culinary work of the day, which he readily accepted. The step-daughter re-heated the last of the frozen containers of tom yum, and poured it into her plate at the table. The young man reheated his plate and sat next to his cousin, and I compared the contents of their plates.

His plate was piled high with chunks of tender beef, diced potato, and a variety of vegetables.

Her plate contained a thin gruel of tom yum with a showing of sliced chillies, a lot of crushed lemon grass debris, and a pile of meatless bones.

I suspect that the lad has had an earlier serve of this batch of tom yum, and knows the side of the bread which carries the butter.

Do I feel guilty about eating the meat? Not the tiniest little bit. My wife is tasked with buying all of the food; she has her own substantial income and gets about half of mine to help pay for the edible goodies. I have the privilege of paying all of the major bills [power, phones, other utilities, council rates, etc.] with what I have left.

Tom yum gruh-doo = spicy and sour bone soup, that’s what I left them, and the girls didn’t know the difference.

I have given up bringing home meat that I want to eat, except what I can cook on the same day. It will otherwise be used in a manner contrary to that which suits it best, and I will be blamed for the meat being unsuitable to the Thai chef’s whims.

This is but one of the penalties one pays for living with a Thai lady. I don’t feel that I need to tell anyone of the benefits.

 

© Santa. All rights reserved by the author.


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Comments / Feedback

nice read
October 11, 2007, 00:18

nice read
Marc Holt
October 11, 2007, 05:29

I hear you brother. Good farung food gone bad after the Thai cook's ministrations.
Dana
October 11, 2007, 05:32

Speaking of meat in Thailand: on my last trip in July I went into the Bus Stop on Soi 4 in BKK and ordered some meal that had meat. It was the worst toughest most inedible grizzly piece of meat I have ever encountered. Inedible. Dog food. So long Bus Stop. This tourist is moving on.
Marc Holt
October 11, 2007, 07:08

Did she scream when you bit into her?
Santa
October 11, 2007, 08:52

Dana: typically, the meat sold as beef in Thailand is actually either buffalo or ox meat, and the animals which supply this meat are usually the ones that have been retired from pulling a plough around the rice-fields.

The only place that I have found the cooked beef to be consistently good is the Chokchai Steakhouses. There is one on the Bangkok-bound carriageway of the Vipavadi-Rangsit road a few kilometres north of the old airport, and another on the main road between Nakhon Ratchasima and Saraburi, about 60 or 70 km from Saraburi.

If they are not there now, they were the last time I was in Thailand.

There may be others around the country, but those are the two that I know of.
Dana
October 11, 2007, 09:33

Thank-you for that advice Mr. Santa and if I ever become the boy toy of a rich Hi-So Thai woman I will have her direct her driver to take us there.

I am no delicate flower in the non US grade meat department having spent some time in Saudia Arabia. The Saudis were importing their meat from Brazil and it was tough meat from tough specimans also. One minute they were taking a happy crap (the cows not the Saudis) on the wind swept pampas and the next minute they were headed for Jeddha and my plate.

But this piece of meat that was delivered to me in the Bus Stop restaurant gave new meaning to . . . hey, I don't know--it was just inedible. It was damned near uncuttable. I reduced it to sizes so small that you could have forced them through the eye of a big needle but I still could not eat it. So what did I do? Did I invite the professional server or the professional eating establishment owner over to express my displeasure? No, I paid the bill and left. Congratulations Thailand. You got my money again.
Jimmie Blonde
October 11, 2007, 11:58

Hmmmm - I am not so sure that the majority of Beef is Buffalo. Most areas I work in the rural areas all have a lot more Beef in stock than buffalo, and my turf is from Sakon Nakorn to Yala.

The trick with Thai Beef is to ask for what would be the most expensive cuts on a Aussie or USA beef. Then get the same, obviously not as good, but much better than sirloin etc.

JJ
October 11, 2007, 12:49

Sorry Dana, I know you hate me by now. But you should complain if there is something you don't like, not just walk away. That is why service here sometimes is not up to USA or EURO standards. The krieng jai and "must not make anyone lose face" attitude from most locals is plain wrong.

I find that in 9 out of 10, a (reasonable) complaint, delivered in a civil way, will be listened to and fixed up. Either a discount or a replacement is offered. If you are talking about bigger stuff, like problems with cars or appliances, it might be an idea to get a Thai friend to act on your behalf. For instance my g/f, she will take no **** from anyone, including fellow Thais and foreigners (plenty **** from the latter group here in Pattaya).

From Bahtbus drivers in Pattaya wanting to get me to pay double what she pays (you should have seen the driver's face after she scolded him, and threatened to do unspeakable things to his genital area), to going straight to the top honcho. Works every time; at Toyota, at Central Chidlom, at restaurants, at shops.

Of course one can lament the need to do this, and that in Boston this issue never (or seldom) arises. But we are in a developing country, and we can be part of educating the service providers. All done of couse with a smile on your face. Bon appetit!

And I can second the Chokchai steakhouse quality, they know about meat quality. The one on the way to Korat (if you head to the national park at Kao Yai, you will pass it) is very good. They do things in US style, so worth a visit if you are in the neighbourhood (not to travel there for a meal only).
Marc Holt
October 11, 2007, 14:16

JJ, spot on. If we don´t point out the problems things will never improve.

There is another Chokchai steak house right down the road from my favorite playground on the corner of soi 23. Go in from Sukhumvit past Soi Cowboy and you will see it on the left at the next intersection. The steaks there are excellent too.
dan p
October 12, 2007, 09:15

i'm new to this site and find it very nice. the articles are great. i'm american and have been married to a wonderful thai lady since 1983. i have zero desire to reside in thailand nor does my wife. a visit every few years is enough. just wanted you to know i think this is a nice site and i enjoy the stories. i am computer stupid and just figured out how to click and view the comments. i find most comments are well written and thought out. mr. dana though appears to be a little "high strung", this isn't and indictment, just an observation. thank you.
Jimmie Blonde
October 12, 2007, 12:38

Am I missing some pages? It says 17 comments but I read only 9 before mine???
Mo
October 12, 2007, 12:42

There was a lot of arguing going on between certain people here and as it was getting worse I figured the best thing was to remove those comments.
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