Backpackers – What’s that all about?

By : sisterray
Views : 1808

I recently decided to embark on an expedition to the backpacker island of Ko Phangnan. My purpose was to study the modern day backpacker in their natural environment. It was quite a mission. Having returned I feel not unlike the intrepid anthropologists studying cannibals in the depths of Papua New Guinea. I managed to escape from the scene with my life, albeit with a nasty taste in the mouth.

Now what is a backpacker or a ‘traveler’ as they prefer to be called? I hate to categorise people on account of certain behavioral patterns that they exhibit, but how else can you begin to understand people who all seem to follow the same set of rules. I find it extremely difficult to determine between different sheep within a flock, as they are all sheep. The same might be said for backpackers (sorry, travelers)

In case you are not familiar with the type of personage to which I refer, here is a check list for identification purposes.

  1. Brand new tattoo. The image should be sore and an antiseptic cream should be heavily applied. In earlier cases it may still be bandaged ( for those virgin pussies only been in Thailand a couple of days).
  2. A bottle of water. The water should last exactly 180 mins, or about the time it takes to watch a Hollywood movie in one of the bars that cater for backpackers.
  3. A backpack.
  4. Cheap Asian clothes. Peasant Fisherman’s trousers with no pockets are a favorite. But most backpackers will wear anything that makes Thai people cringe. All the time they feel they are ‘blending in’ with the culture.
  5. A complete disability to speak the language or understand the culture.
  6. A GUIDE BOOK.
  7. Some kind of bracelet or necklace normally made of small wooden beads. Both female and male subjects can be seen wearing these.
  8. A constant fear of paying too much for anything. Backpackers rarely tip. And if they do it is by mistake.

Now it seems that backpacker fashion has changed somewhat. The men seem to shave their hair nowadays rather than grow it long as they did a few years ago. I did, however meet one Spanish individual in Koh Phangnan who had long shoulder length hair and a long beard. He looked like Jesus Christ; but he couldn’t manage to drive a Honda Wave let alone walk on water. And he was so tight that if he could turn the water into wine he would have either kept it for himself or bottled it and sold it back to the masses.

I am not bitter about getting old or any thing like that. I do speak from experience. I have traveled with a back pack around most of Asia, Africa and Europe. The difference is I guess that I prefer to spend time with locals. If I wanted to sit and speak with a bunch of Europeans I would have probably moved to Spain or Greece or somewhere.

There is a definite fashion scene with travelers. It seems to me that they have all DARED to give up their day jobs or school or staying at home with the parents because they feel the need to do something completely ‘different’ …They are BRAVE and ADVENTUROUS And what do they do when they escape ?...They wear the same clothes as everybody else who is being ‘different’. They go to the same hotels as everybody ‘different’ they read the same guide book as everybody ‘different’ eat the same food as everybody ‘different’ etc etc etc….

What summed it up for me was whilst sitting in one of these Backpacker bars. I became quite hungry. I asked for the menu. I ordered a ham and leek pie. I don’t need to apologise for this. I was hungry and I like pie. I like ham and I like leak. On the table opposite was a French backpacker with his girlfriend. He sported a little elfish beard. His girlfriend had a metro sexual look about her. Short hair pseudo intellectual borderline lesbian chic. If you catch my drift….

He said “That is disgusting! – How can you come all the way to Thailand and eat food like this?”

“Because, I like it.”

“But you are in THAILAND!”

“That is correct.”

He looked over at his girlfriend. They exchanged a disgusted glance. “You have to enjoy the food here whilst you stay here. You have to eat what the locals eat” He told me.

“And what do the locals eat in Ko Phangan?”

“We have ordered Kho Pad Moo.” He said proudly.

“Yes.” I said. “That’s adventurous. Be careful.”

“It is REAL THAI food,” He told me.

In fact it’s a Chinese addition to Thai cuisine, but I let it slide.

They continued to stare. I grew fed up. This French fag and his dyke girlfriend were putting me off from eating my pie. They kept on staring at me like I was about to explode from cultural misunderstanding at any given moment. I had to set them straight.

It came out “Listen friend. I have lived in this country for many years. I have been married to a Thai for six years. I run a business here. I have two children who hold Thai passports. I like to eat pie because I can not get pie where I live in Thailand. I am on holiday. Let me eat my pie, please. I didn’t ask to talk to you.”

He said something in French. I couldn’t catch what it was. I should have paid more attention at school. Or maybe he should of paid more attention at school. Perhaps he is still at school. I got up from the table.

I paid the bill, leaving a twenty percent tip, and got myself out of there.

 

Sisterray

 

 

© Sisterray. All rights reserved by the author.


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Comments / Feedback

chuckwoww
December 4, 2007, 03:30

It may look to you as if they are just watching Hollywood movies and drinking bottled water. In fact they are busy saving the planet.
Marc Holt
December 4, 2007, 11:14

Right! Right! They don't waste precious resources like soap, toothpaste, or razor blades. They eat the cheapest food, ensuring that the natives get to eat all that good stuff like Big Mac and pizza. Gotta give it to 'em. They sure are doing a good job.
ssisrerray - jim
December 4, 2007, 11:50

mmm Big Mac. Need to conserve those Big Macs....
Thats made me hungry.
Personally, I blame the guide books for the way these youngsters behave over here. There seems to be this 'if it's not in the book I won't do it' way of thinking.
I've tried to move to tourist areas but I just keep coming back to Isaan. I always like going to Bangkok as there is a large expat scene and many wonderful bars... But I just can't manage to visit the tourist areas anymore...It kinda frustrates me....Perhaps I have been instituationlised by rural Thai life.
Dana
December 5, 2007, 14:58

It seems all is entropy and the downward spiral. Backpacking (traveling to places not like your own place) should be one of those beyond debate good things. I would like to believe that it once was one of those good things.

Now, however; backpackers (in Thailand and by extrapolation Asia/India etc.) display a personality trait that is lethal for profitable social intercourse. They are boring.

To presume that you are more hip than me before you know me is many things; but finally, just boring. Please backpackers. Get away from me.
jagoturner
December 5, 2007, 22:51

Nice article... I've had experiences that could make frothing-at-the-mouth additions to any why-I-hate-backpackers list but... The truth is I actually like those backpackers havens. For every arrogant tie-dye wearing dipstick boasting of his torment at having to use a hole-in-the-ground toilet in Kathmandu and trying to bargain a thirty baht pair of flips flops down to five baht there were two perfectly decent blokes on the break of a lifetime and appreciating every second of it for all it was worth.

I may never have endured the horrors of Ko Pangan and I'm not sure I'd ever want to but I spent a significant part of the early nineties staying at the old Lek Guest House on Khao San Road and would count that time as some of the happiest in my life. If you know a country well there's something truly invigorating seeing it again through the eyes of someone who's there for the first time. Tasting their first takataan. Having their first flirtations with Thai women. Trying out their first guide book Thai on tuk tuk drivers and shopkeepers who speak perfectly good English. Buying second hand copies of Huxley and Hesse and Sartre, trying to figure out what their life is all about and then chatting deep into the night in nocturnal coffee bars about all they've seen during the day and how it's shifted their perspectives on everything.

And I did miss a lot of that optimism and vitality and fun when I first moved up to the other end of town and found that the most frequent conversational opener was "Did you see the football last night?"

Having said that Khao San Road does have those ****ing Israelis yelling across guest house restaurants as if they're the only people on Earth who matter and there is always that sense that if you're over twenty five you might as well be Methusalah... And don't even get me started on the ****s who think that because they're on holiday they should be able to play their boomboxes at three in the morning on a residential street. And the women who go on and on about how disgusting and dirty everything is just because their mother isn't at hand with a bottle of Harpic.

But you can't judge every backpacker just because of them. But then, maybe I only say that because when I first went to Thailand I stayed on Khao San Road for four months with low funds, I only spoke a little Thai, I didn't have a job, I didn't know what I was doing with my life and I probably thought that every time I ate a bowl of somtam I was living like a local. With a backpack, baggy shorts and a cleaner conscience I could have easily been one of them.
chuckwoww
December 6, 2007, 00:06

jagoturner has a point. Perhaps we shouldn't generalize. I once met a young English bloke on a bus from Phuket to Samui and we had a great time. He thought I was amazing because I can speak Thai and he never stopped asking questions about Thialand. It was great for my ego and I turned him on to the bars in Chaweng. He would have been scared to go in them without me. Second thoughts maybe I corrupted him....nah...
Marc Holt
December 7, 2007, 08:15

The Backpacker has always been what you have all described. Perhaps the most disconcerting part of my own backpack experience was traveling from Bali to Bangkok and meeting the same people all the time. And that was in 1977-78! Not only that, but they all had a copy of Lonely Planet, ate the same 'local food' that wasn't local at all but over adapted versions the locals thought the backpackers could eat.

The Israelis weren't around then, but there were plenty of other loud types to compensate. But there were also plenty of good people.

Eventually, I got tired of meeting the same group though, and a mate and myself jumped on a plane to PI. That was fun. There were no backpackers and we saw a lot of the country up real close. But Thailand beckoned, and here I still am 28 years later.
Dana
December 7, 2007, 10:18

Many lives each one lived one at a time. I could tell stories of youthful things but I am youthful no longer. The appeal of backpacking still pulls but this time around I want bush beaters, and someone to carry the stupid pack, and a cook. I also require for my backpacking adventures unlimited amounts of money, total dominion and control over my surroundings, and the carte blance ability in any country to kill pesky locals.

The last pure backpacker was Harry Pidgeon. After that came Tillman in the mountains. Rockwell Kent could make you dream and of course the founder of the Boy Scout movement and others of his ilk wove magic stories for boys and men.

Backpacking as the politically correct way to sample other (totally awesome hip cultures dude) people came later as the purity of man and nature started to spiral down. Early backpacking and boatpacking was all about nature and was sublime for the dreaming boy and the yearning man.

Now sunsets have been replaced with Germans in sandals with white socks; and Israel's in full blown attitude steamrolling locals and leaving no smiles behind. Lots of hip philosophy musings in the hostel near the ski chalet but how many close up pictures of mountain flowers did they take?

I grew up poor and the two week family vacation for the poor was camping (with borrowed equipment). Dad and I could actually catch mountain trout for breakfast and the water was clean. No purifying tablets needed. I remember those days with sadness. Gone.
- jim
December 8, 2007, 19:48

There are still fish in the water to catch...and sunsets...Just some of us become too cynical to see them for what they are....
But that said, give me a cocktail and a newspaper in the Orinental or Raffles, rather than an ice coffee and conversation revolving around the quality of Asian plumbing on the Koh San anyday of the week.
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